Morning
Espresso and cornetto
Stand at the bar, order a short coffee and watch the room change as the neighbourhood starts its day.
The essential four
Start with the classics.
Cacio e pepe is pasta, pecorino and pepper. Carbonara adds egg and guanciale. Amatriciana brings tomato and chilli, while gricia keeps the guanciale and pecorino, leaving out the tomato.
Order one at a time rather than trying to sample everything in one meal. The best Roman evenings have room for a second stop.
Build a food day.
Follow the city from a standing espresso to a long dinner, with the market and aperitivo in between.
Midday
Market lunch
Visit Testaccio or Campo de' Fiori for produce, cheese, bread and a quick bite before the afternoon heat.
Evening
Aperitivo to dinner
Take a small drink early, then reserve a table for a proper meal. Romans tend to eat dinner later than many visitors.
“The best table is often the one that makes you want to stay for one more glass.”
Useful table manners.
Check whether service and coperto are included, ask before substituting ingredients and do not rush the meal. Water, bread and coffee may appear separately on the bill.
For popular restaurants, reserve ahead. For a casual trattoria, arrive early and look for a short menu that follows the season.
Where to look.
Testaccio: traditional Roman cooking.
Trastevere: lively evenings and plenty of choice.
Monti: wine bars and contemporary takes.
Prati: markets and neighbourhood restaurants.